{"id":6797,"date":"2017-12-24T20:21:43","date_gmt":"2017-12-24T20:21:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/?p=6797"},"modified":"2024-07-09T05:52:32","modified_gmt":"2024-07-09T05:52:32","slug":"an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/","title":{"rendered":"South Face of Aconcagua"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=&quot;attachment_6798&quot;  style=\"width: 1024px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-6798 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto1-bubendorfer_12-21-1024x700.jpg\" alt=\"South Face Aconcagua\" width=\"1024\" height=\"700\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernando Grajales Sr. provided logistics and advice during Thomas\u2019 project, and they became friends. In the picture, both of them and Fernando Jr., then 11 years old.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">In December of 1990, a young Austrian climber planted his two tents at the the base of Mt. Aconcagua\u2019s South Face, a lonely place in those days. The mules that carried his cache of food and gear also carried a wooden structure that the arrieros (muleteers) put together in the campsite. The climber was Thomas\u00a0Bubendorfer, then 29 years old, and the pieces of wood were a rudimentary climbing wall that was to be his only furniture for the next weeks.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">After many days studying the face and training at altitude,\u00a0Bubendorfer\u00a0set off to climb the 3.000m of sheer rock and ice of the South Face in the astonishing time of 15h30m, alone and without carrying a rope (although witnesses and climbers said that he used fixed ropes in parts of the route).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_6802&quot;  style=\"width: 1024px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-6802 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto3-bubendorfer_12-21-1-1024x672.png\" alt=\"South Face Aconcagua\" width=\"1024\" height=\"672\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A home in the mountain: Bubendorfer\u00b4s lonely camp below the South Face, with \u201cclimbing gym\u201d included (1991).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">More than 25 years later, it remains an impressive achievement, and the comfirmed speed record to date. A German climber, Jurgen Strauss, claims to have climbed the South Face in 12h30m, in 1997; but there are no pictures or witnesses to prove it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Bubendorfer\u00a0was already an accomplished climber in 1991, with solo ascents and speed records like the Eiger in 4h50m, and the solo ascent of Fitz Roy in less than 24 hs (round trip from basecamp) in 1987. Well educated and with talents for writing and as a speaker, the Austrian was a \u201cclimbing star\u201d in Europe.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_6799&quot;  style=\"width: 679px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-6799 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto2-bubendorfer_12-21-679x1024.png\" alt=\"South Face Aconcagua\" width=\"679\" height=\"1024\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showing off. Bubendorfer climbing without rope, in a serac that wasn&#8217;t part of the route.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">In Argentina, in fact, he was greeted by the famous racer Juan Manuel Fangio, who handed a brand new Mercedes Benz jeep to\u00a0Bubendorfer, as part of a publicity campaign.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">But in the mountains he applied a much more minimalist, \u201cdown to earth\u201d philosophy. The fancy jeep ended up in a warehouse, while Thomas spent the summer at over 4.000m in Mt. Aconcagua, training and climbing. We know this because the warehouse was our deposit in Puente del Inca, and Fernando Grajales Expeditions provided the logistics for\u00a0Bubendorfer\u2019s entire project.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s2\">After Aconcagua, the Austrian alpinist described his climb in the American Alpine Journal, with this words: \u201c<\/span><span class=\"s1\">On January 3, I managed to climb the south face of Aconcagua on the direct (Messner) route, solo, in 15 \u00bd hours. It took another 5\u00bd hours to descend the normal route. I was the only climber to do the direct route in the past two years. Three other parties were successful in December, 1990 and January, 1991 on the original French route: Japanese in four days, Koreans in five days and a solo Chilean in four days.<\/span><span class=\"s2\">\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"s1\">Thomas\u00a0Bubendorfer, Deutscher Alpenverein\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s1\">Bubendorfer\u00a0went on to become one of the more prolific alpinists of all time, opening routes and climbing steep rock and ice in the Alps, the Himalayas, Patagonia and the Dolomites. In 2017, at 54, he suffered a big fall while he was ice climbing with a partner. After a week fighting for his life, the tough alpinist started to recover and he is well now.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>This is his website, where he shares many interesting stories: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bubendorfer.com\">www.bubendorfer.com<\/a><\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_6805&quot;  style=\"width: 683px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-6805 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto4-bubendorfer_12-21-3-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"South Face Aconcagua\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Still going strong. Bubendorfer, now 54, is an active climber and a \u201cbrand ambassador\u201d for companies such as Grivel and Porsche.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In December of 1990, a young Austrian climber planted his two tents at the the base of Mt. Aconcagua\u2019s South Face, a lonely place in those days. The mules that carried his cache of food and gear also carried a wooden structure that the arrieros (muleteers) put together in the campsite. The climber was Thomas\u00a0Bubendorfer, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":7275,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[7,10,453],"class_list":["post-6797","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-englishpost","tag-aconcagua","tag-climbaconcagua","tag-south-face-aconcagua"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.7.1 (Yoast SEO v25.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>South Face of Aconcagua - Grajales Expeditions<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Speed record of Thomas\u00a0Bubendorfer\u00a0in the South Face of Aconcagua. Fernando Grajales Sr. provided logistics and advice during Thomas ...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"South Face of Aconcagua\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In December of 1990, a young Austrian climber planted his two tents at the the base of Mt. Aconcagua\u2019s South Face, a lonely place in those days. The mules\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Grajales Expeditions\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/GrajalesExpeditions\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-12-24T20:21:43+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-07-09T05:52:32+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto-featured-bubendorfer_12-21-copia.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"882\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"440\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Nicolas Garcia\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@grajalesnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@grajalesnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Nicolas Garcia\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Nicolas Garcia\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/ec125e6237754b0d36d9273cfd4c3c5d\"},\"headline\":\"South Face of Aconcagua\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-12-24T20:21:43+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-07-09T05:52:32+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\"},\"wordCount\":601,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto-featured-bubendorfer_12-21-copia.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"aconcagua\",\"climbaconcagua\",\"south face aconcagua\"],\"articleSection\":[\"EnglishPost\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/\",\"name\":\"South Face of Aconcagua - Grajales Expeditions\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/an-alpinist-in-the-andes-the-speed-record-of-thomas-bubendorfer-in-the-south-face-of-aconcagua\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/FGE_foto-featured-bubendorfer_12-21-copia.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-12-24T20:21:43+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-07-09T05:52:32+00:00\",\"description\":\"Speed record of Thomas\u00a0Bubendorfer\u00a0in the South Face of Aconcagua. 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