{"id":7126,"date":"2018-07-08T03:45:01","date_gmt":"2018-07-08T03:45:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/?p=7126"},"modified":"2024-08-03T10:43:02","modified_gmt":"2024-08-03T10:43:02","slug":"forgotten-pioneer-2018-7-8","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/forgotten-pioneer-2018-7-8\/","title":{"rendered":"Don Gilberto Salazar, the forgotten pioneer"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2><strong>This Chilean gaucho of legenday strength reached 6.560m in Aconcagua\u2019s first known summit attempt.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>G\u00fcssfeldt, Zurbriggen, FitzGerald; these are well known names, the pioneers of Aconcagua. They have become a part of Aconcagua and they have a place in history and in the field, with glaciers and peaks named after them. But the stories of their local guides have remained largely untold.\u00a0Don Gilberto Salazar was the first one of them. The story goes that this\u00a0Chilean gaucho\u00a0had such strong lungs that he could light a fire at 5.000 m, with just matches and by blowing at the coal. We\u2019ll probably never know if this is true, but it is a fact that Salazar played a key role in the exploration of Mt. Aconcagua.<\/p>\n<p>Don Gilberto was initially hired as a muleteer by Paul G\u00fcssfeldt, a German geologist and mountaineer that led the first known summit attempt of Aconcagua, in February of 1883.\u00a0G\u00fcssfeldt had planned to climb with the Swiss guide Alexander Burgener (who had completed first ascents in the Alps like the Grand Dru and the\u00a0Zmutt Ridge of the\u00a0Matterhorn). But Burgener changed his mind soon after they arrived to Valpara\u00edso (Chile). G\u00fcssfeldt was left alone but, far from quitting, he hired some arrieros and headed for the Cordillera in a series of exploring trips.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7128 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/GRA_blog-Aconcagua-Salazar-foto2_07-06-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" \/><\/p>\n<p>During one of these expeditions G\u00fcssfeldt reached the summit of Maipo Volcano (5.323 m). It was the first recorded ascent of a major peak in the Central Andes by a westerner. The geologist reached the summit on January 19, alone. The two gauchos climbing with him turned around, exhausted.\u00a0Once acclimatized to the altitude and harsh environment of the High Andes, G\u00fcssfeldt travelled to the Aconcagua Valley, always in Chile, and sought the services of the renowned arriero Don Gilberto Salazar. They completed a team with other three or four gauchos and set off for Aconcagua.\u00a0It was a productive society, that of Salazar and G\u00fcssfeldt. The European had a romantic vision, the &#8220;wanderlust&#8221;, and a scientific mind, while Don Gilberto with his intuitive knowledge of the Cordillera was the Earth itself. The geologist could read the topographic maps, the gaucho could read the storm clouds. They complemented each other, and the result would be an impressive climbing achievement, given the limited knowledge and equipment that they had at the time.<\/p>\n<p>Although Mt. Aconcagua is entirely in the Argentinian side of the Andes, its outstanding massif is more visible from the Chilean valleys. The group approached the mountain by one of these valleys, riding mules for long days up the Putaendo river and down to the Northwest side of Aconcagua. They set up a bivouac at 3.600m, from where they launched the summit attempt. According to G\u00fcssfeldt\u2019s gripping account of the climb, the summit party left camp on the afternoon of the 20th of February. It was 4 PM when the German climber, Salazar and a second gaucho, Vicente Pereira, rode their mules towards the unknown upper reaches of the mountain. They rode until 20:30 PM and then started hiking. It was a long, cold night, that they endured with scarce gear and even less food.\u00a0It wasn\u2019t technical climbing but endless moraines, swept by a wind that penetrated their garments. The gauchos were reluctant to keep going. To the methodic alpinist, that meant precious time spent in arguments. Finally and after 18 hours of effort, Pereira lied down in the rocks at 6.200m. His feet were cold and he wouldn\u00b4t go any further.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7129 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/GRA_blog-Aconcagua-Salazar-foto3_07-06-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-wp-editing=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was only G\u00fcssfeldt and Salazar now. They kept putting one foot in front of the other and gasping for air. But after one hour and a half, the tough gaucho hesitated and complained from pain in his legs. Then G\u00fcssfeldt -with his limited knowledge of Spanish, at 6.400m in a hostile environment, and in the verge of exhaustion-, managed to improvise a motivational speech. It was going to be such a great achievement, if they reached the summit together. The encouragement worked and both men shook hands and committed to the climb.\u00a0It was past noon when they stopped at 6.560 m (22,522 ft). They had been riding and climbing for more than 20 hours. The final Canaleta (couloir) and the rocks of the summit were visible now. Both of them were tired but determined.\u00a0They considereded the possibility of spending the night right there, in a minimalist bivouac without blankets, fuel or food, to reach the summit on the next day. Salazar\u2019s resilience and courage at that critical moment impressed G\u00fcssfeldt.\u00a0But as they discussed the options, dark clouds began to close in and covered the summit. The alpinist and the gaucho had been around mountains long enough, and knew that pressing on under a snow storm would mean a sure death. They turned their backs on the summit they had worked so hard to reach, and descended safely to their camp and then back to the valleys.<\/p>\n<p>The climbing route that they prospected is nowadays the Normal Route, and there is a glacier in the mountain that bears G\u00fcssfeldt\u2019s name; but there is no feature in the terrain (or in the literature) for don Gilberto Salazar, the muleteer who could light coal a 5.000 meters.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-7130\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/GRA_blog-Aconcagua-Salazar-foto4_07-06-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">[ Text: Nicol\u00e1s Garc\u00eda \/ Photos: Chilean-German expedition in 1952, repeating Salazar and G\u00fcssfeldt&#8217;s route in Aconcagua ]<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This Chilean gaucho of legenday strength reached 6.560m in Aconcagua\u2019s first known summit attempt.\u00a0 G\u00fcssfeldt, Zurbriggen, FitzGerald; these are well known names, the pioneers of Aconcagua. They have become a part of Aconcagua and they have a place in history and in the field, with glaciers and peaks named after them. But the stories of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":7258,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[6,7,14,10,11,13,17],"class_list":["post-7126","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-englishpost","tag-42yearsofleadership","tag-aconcagua","tag-adventure","tag-climbaconcagua","tag-fgrajalesexpeditions","tag-getouthere","tag-summit"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.7.1 (Yoast SEO v25.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Aconcagua Glacier: The Untold Stories of Local Guides - Grajales Expeditions<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Discover the role of local guides, such as Don Gilberto Salazar, in the exploration of Aconcagua. 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Reporter, free lance writer and editor at different newspapers and magazines: Editor at Los Andes newspaper (Mendoza, Argentina); reporter at El Cronista newspaper (Buenos Aires, Argentina). Free lance articles for: La Naci\u00f3n (Buenos Aires); The Observer (London); Argentina\u2019s National Ministry of Tourism. Currently, logistics, communication and texts for the Mendoza guiding company Grajales Expeditions.","sameAs":["https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/garcianethe\/"],"url":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/author\/nico\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7126","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7126"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7126\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15096,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7126\/revisions\/15096"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7258"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7126"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7126"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7126"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}