{"id":9003,"date":"2020-06-01T15:57:26","date_gmt":"2020-06-01T15:57:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/?p=9003"},"modified":"2024-07-13T08:43:46","modified_gmt":"2024-07-13T08:43:46","slug":"climb-polish-glacier-route","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/climb-polish-glacier-route\/","title":{"rendered":"Aconcagua Climbing<\/br>The Polish Glacier Direct Route"},"content":{"rendered":"<h1>Aconcagua&#8217;s Polish Glacier: the best of two worlds<\/h1>\n<p>Climbing Aconcagua by the <a href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/aconcagua-summit-polish-glacier-route\/\">Polish Glacier Route<\/a> offers the best of two worlds. The huge scale of this wild Andean glacier poses a demanding, Himalayan-like mountaineering challenge. At the same time, the straightforward logistics, well equipped camps and ease of access of Aconcagua makes it simpler than similar climbs in the more remote ranges.\u00a0Add a long summit day at almost 7,000 meters, strenuous but protected by our fixed ropes, and the convenience of the climbing season (December to February), and you have the perfect preparation for a Himalayan expedition.<\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_9072&quot;  style=\"width: 1200px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-9072 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Aconcagua - Polish Glacier - Grajales Expeditions\" width=\"1200\" height=\"611\" srcset=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2-300x153.jpg 300w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2-1024x521.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2-768x391.jpg 768w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2-800x407.jpg 800w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot2-500x255.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mt. Aconcagua &#8211; Vacas Valley approach, with an amazing view of the Polish Glacier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h3><strong>The Vacas Valley approach<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>The prominent Polish Glacier covers the northeast face of Mt Aconcagua, from 5,850 m to 6,700 m at the summit ridge. Most climbers complete the scenic hike to Plaza Argentina, its base camp, in three days. The trailhead, Punta de Vacas, is located at 180 km from the city of Mendoza.<\/p>\n<p>With its gradual altitude gain, the gentle slopes of the pristine valley of the\u00a0<em>R\u00edo de las Vacas\u00a0<\/em>are ideal to acclimatize. Also, as 99% of the climbers hire mules to carry their gear and supplies to base camp, light backpacks add up to a relaxed hike in.\u00a0The impressive views of the glacier and the traditional \u201casado\u201d (Gaucho BBQ) are highlights of the approach. (The meals, service and big grins at <strong>Grajales Expeditions<\/strong> are highlights too, if we may say so).<\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_9074&quot;  style=\"width: 1200px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9074\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Aconcagua - Polish Glacier - Grajales Expeditions\" width=\"1200\" height=\"611\" srcset=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3-300x153.jpg 300w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3-1024x521.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3-768x391.jpg 768w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3-800x407.jpg 800w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot3-500x255.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scenic landscape in the background of Camp 3 \u201cGuanacos\u201d, on the Polish Glacier Direct Route<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h3><strong>It&#8217;s different from the Polish Traverse \/ 360\u00ba route!<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Our guided expeditions use three altitude camps above BC, which are set up with the old, proven system of \u201ccarry high, sleep low\u201d; carrying part of the gear to the next camp one day, coming back to sleep, and moving up with the rest of the gear the next day. Some unguided, strong parties skip one camp and go directly from camp 1 to the camp at the base of the glacier, in one long push.<\/p>\n<p>The <a href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/aconcagua-summit-polish-glacier-route\/\">Polish Glacier Route<\/a> shares the first two camps above BC with the <a href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/aconcagua-summit-polish-traverse\/\">Polish Traverse<\/a>, also called <em>False Polish<\/em>, or <em>360\u00ba route<\/em>. This non-technical route is one of the \u201cnormal\u201d routes used to climb Aconcagua. Although the names look similar, it\u2019s a completely different route. The <em>Polish Traverse<\/em>, as the name implies, traverses the mountain to the north towards Camp Colera, the high camp of the <em>Normal Route<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>The <em>Polish Glacier route<\/em>, on the other hand, remains on the north-east side of the mountain and has a high camp at the base of the glacier (at 5,863 m). Our guided groups \u2013as do most climbers- attempt the summit from this camp. This results in a long summit day, with more than one thousand meters of vertical gain on technical terrain: this is one of the challenges of this climb.<\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_9075&quot;  style=\"width: 1200px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9075\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Aconcagua - Polish Glacier - Grajales Expeditions\" width=\"1200\" height=\"611\" srcset=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4-300x153.jpg 300w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4-1024x521.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4-768x391.jpg 768w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4-800x407.jpg 800w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot4-500x255.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Climbers on the first section of the Polish Glacier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h3><strong>First ascent of the Polish Glacier<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>The Polish Glacier owes its name to the first (known) expedition that explored the <em>Upper Vacas Valley<\/em> and successfully climbed the glacier. In the first months of 1934, a team of six strong Polish climbers performed an impressive raid of first ascents of 6000ers in the Central Andes. With self-designed boots with spikes and tents, the group climbed Mt. Mercedario (6,720 m) and other peaks in the Ramada Range. Then they set their sights on Aconcagua, at 6,960.80 m (the highest elevation in the Andes). By then the mountain had been climbed only a handful of times, always by its Normal, northwest face.<\/p>\n<p>Instead, they hiked up the Vacas and Relincho valleys and set up a camp at 4,000 m. Then in four days (spending a night on the glacier) they completed a line that follows the left side of the glacier and then the long summit ridge. Four of them reached the main summit on March 8, 1934, and all six of them returned safely to base camp three days later.<\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_9076&quot;  style=\"width: 1200px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-9076\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Aconcagua - Polish Glacier - Grajales Expeditions\" width=\"1200\" height=\"611\" srcset=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5-300x153.jpg 300w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5-1024x521.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5-768x391.jpg 768w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5-800x407.jpg 800w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot5-500x255.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The slope gets steeper on the way up to the summit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h3><strong>Aconcagua Polish Glacier Direct Route with fixed ropes<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>In 1961 a team of climbers from Argentina opened a shorter line on the glacier. This route became known as the <em>Polish Direct Route<\/em>, and is the line of choice for our guides.<\/p>\n<p>The <em>Polish Glacier Direct Route<\/em> avoids the now dangerous traverse across the glacier of the original Polish Route, and considerably shortens the long ridge climb to the summit. The \u201ccost\u201d of saving precious hours on summit day is a couple of steeper sections (around 55\u00ba snow and ice) above 6,500 m. But this is where our more than 1,000 meters of fixed rope make a big difference.<\/p>\n<p>Each season a team of guides and porters from <strong>Grajales Expeditions<\/strong> carefully install this bomb-proof line of fixed rope on key sections of the Polish Glacier. This pioneering feature not only provides obvious advantages in safety and speed, but also brings the system used in the Himalaya to Aconcagua, thus providing the perfect training ground for Everest or its siblings.<\/p>\n<figure id=&quot;attachment_9077&quot;  style=\"width: 1024px;\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter \"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-9077 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-1024x521.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Aconcagua - Polish Glacier - Grajales Expeditions\" width=\"1024\" height=\"521\" srcset=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-1024x521.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-300x153.jpg 300w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-768x391.jpg 768w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-800x407.jpg 800w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6-500x255.jpg 500w, https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/GRA_blog-Polish-Fot6.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Summit! On the top of the whole Andes, ay 6,690 m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>[ Text: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/garcianethe\/?igshid=1ex9d9ico30uq\">Nicol\u00e1s Garc\u00eda<\/a> \/ Photos: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/betancourtphoto\/?hl=es-la\">Pablo Betancourt<\/a>]<\/p>\n<h4>Resources:<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/aconcagua-summit-polish-glacier-route\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">MOUNT ACONCAGUA POLISH GLACIER ROUTE<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.andeshandbook.org\/montanismo\/ruta\/448\/Directa_Polacos\" rel=\"nofollow\nnoopener\">https:\/\/www.andeshandbook.org\/montanismo\/ruta\/448\/Directa_Polacos<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/summitediciones\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/summitediciones\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Aconcagua&#8217;s Polish Glacier: the best of two worlds Climbing Aconcagua by the Polish Glacier Route offers the best of two worlds. The huge scale of this wild Andean glacier poses a demanding, Himalayan-like mountaineering challenge. At the same time, the straightforward logistics, well equipped camps and ease of access of Aconcagua makes it simpler than [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":9004,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[7,8,14,370,371,369,10,367,23,25,366,368,21],"class_list":["post-9003","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-englishpost","tag-aconcagua","tag-aconcaguagrajales","tag-adventure","tag-andes","tag-argentina","tag-climb","tag-climbaconcagua","tag-glacier","tag-mendoza","tag-mountain","tag-polish","tag-route","tag-sevensummits"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.7.1 (Yoast SEO v25.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Aconcagua ClimbingThe Polish Glacier Direct Route - Grajales Expeditions<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Aconcagua: Polish Glacier Route. Climbing route description and history. This route combines logistics with a demanding challenge.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/grajales.net\/en\/climb-polish-glacier-route\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Aconcagua ClimbingThe Polish Glacier Direct Route\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Aconcagua&#039;s Polish Glacier: the best of two worlds Climbing Aconcagua by the Polish Glacier Route offers the best of two worlds. 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